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Europe

Canterbury, England

Casually Crooked County Kent & a Cambridge Afternoon

Diving into southern English life for a weekend is like being tossed from white water into a lagoon. Unhurried locals stroll down mossy lanes, gliding through an all-consuming marine layer with relaxed expressions and friendly eyes. Smiles, chimneys, cobblestones and roads embrace their…

yerevan-armenia

Journey to the Caucasus | Part 1: A Wisp of Armenia

“Here’s where they train the stupid police,” our taxi driver informed us in angry, broken English. It was 3am and still dark. We were tired but curiosity and good manners won out over sleep. Arriving in the middle of…

Defense tower in Svaneti

Trekking in Georgia: A Love Affair with the Greater Caucasus

Stretching between the Black Sea and the Caspian Sea, the Caucasus Mountains are in a blurry category of their own, with complex ties to Europe, Asia and the Middle East, but fully reflecting none of the above. Driven by the heat, we first headed…

Dubrovnik-city-center

Cruising the Croatian Coast: Split to Dubrovnik

Croatia: home of lazy, fish-fed cats, orange roofs and game-of-thrones-worthy coastlines. All of which we experienced on a mid-June boat trip from Split to Dubrovnik.…

Ireland-feature

Friendly Folk, Mean Whiskey & Other Irish Staples

Journey to a place where music is a daily given, where sheep strike a pose and where green rules. Guinness flows like water, and conversation does too. Here, books are older than time, surpassed only by overgrown, forgotten roads.…

Carrauntoohill

Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way:
A 10-Day Itinerary

At the age of 12, my best friend and I had a serious conversation on the school playground that led to a decision: we would go on a trip, someplace far away. So we started saving, quarters and pennies…

Inisheer-cemetery

The Road to Inisheer: Life on Ireland’s Aran Islands

The sound of waves breaking, children chatting in Gaelic and our ferry motoring away faded out quickly under the thick layer of mist tasked with keeping the island hidden from outsiders. We, and a handful of other visitors, had arrived nonetheless. A windy, thirty-minute…

Amsterdam

Amsterdam: Kings, Windows & Cats

A cafe with a resident cat is simply better than a cafe without one – a fact one learns in Amsterdam. Some questions are impossible to answer, like what is your favorite band or favorite food. Favorite city should be one…

The City of Cologne

Cologne: Where Cool Meets Authentic

One of my favorite cities of all time is also one of the easiest to overlook. Is it a must-see? Probably not. Is it beautiful? Not particularly. Is it packed with sites? Eh, maybe a few. It’s kind of…

parisfeature4

The Beauty of Doing Nothing in Paris

Angela Carter once said that “Cities have sexes. London is a man, Paris is a woman, and New York is a well-adjusted transsexual.” There’s no doubt about it — Paris is svelte, sophisticated, captivating, provocative and drop-dead gorgeous…and she…

norwayfeature2

“The Light” and Other Reasons to Visit Norway

The summer light in Norway is like nothing I’ve ever seen. It’s different. It’s a half awake, dreamy kind of light — soft, with a lazy hue. Blue at midnight, yellow at midday, but always fuzzy and indecisive. It…

Dinant Belgian Beer Tasting weeekend

Belgian Beer Bliss in Wallonia

I’ve never heard of a sweepstakes offering plane tickets to Belgium as the grand prize. No one is anti-Belgian of course — what’s there to hate? But Spain, Greece, France, Austria, Italy and a number of other countries fall…

Someone sitting alone by a river

Dinner for One: The Truth About Moving Abroad Alone

I can hear the scraping of a broom but can’t see anyone, just blue, glittery static, unsure if my eyes are open or closed.  I sit, enjoying the cool surface beneath me. The static grows lighter and fades away. I’m…