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Empty Jeeps waiting to enter China and fill up on goods

Helping Hands: Crossing the Mongolian Border

What I noticed first were the hands. Heavy, no-nonsense, working hands. Hands that lift and carry and squeeze. Okay, I might be exaggerating a little and even flirting with political incorrectness, but it’s what I remember. As we moved…

Khovsgol lake iced over

A Vegetarian in Mongolia

As far as I could tell, eating in rural Mongolia was not a long, drawn out undertaking with themed napkins and brightly painted ceramic kitchenware. It was often mono-utensil, mono-dish and mono-flavor, but always filling and efficient. After barely a…